How Did the Sunscreen Conversation Take Such a Wrong Turn?

There is a palpable change in the conversation around sunscreen. For a while, it felt like we—mostly—had a grip on the importance of sunscreen. But a recent temperature check on the state of sunscreen awareness shows that we’re slipping. Out of nowhere, creators are going viral for promoting unsafe sun behaviors motivated by misguided reasons and claims lacking data. Whether the (false) claims are that certain sunscreen ingredients are a threat to your health or that sunscreen causes low vitamin D levels (also false), a dangerous anti-sunscreen sentiment is compounding online, often targeting younger populations. And as a dermatologist who diagnoses and treats skin cancer every day, I’m very, very worried. 

Skin cancer is the most common type of cancer in the United States. We know it’s directly linked to sun exposure, which means the more time we spend soaking up those rays, especially without sun protection, the higher our risk. Recently, there has been a substantial uptick in misinformation about sun protection on social media. Marisa Garshick, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in NYC and NJ, has also observed these trends, stating “Some influencers promote the idea that sunscreens are full of toxic chemicals that can cause more harm than good, while others suggest that natural sun exposure without protection is beneficial for health. This has led to a growing mistrust of sunscreens and confusion about the importance of sun protection.” Topics commonly discussed in these popular videos include “the sun does not cause skin cancer,” “sunscreen causes skin cancer,” and “sunscreen is a scam.” 

What we’re seeing on social media reflects the reality of how young people in America view sun protection. A recent study found that 1 in 7 adults under the age of 35 believe daily sunscreen use is more harmful than direct sun exposure. Mamina Turegano, MD, FAAD, and board-certified dermatologist and dermatopathologist, explains why this is untrue. “Sunscreens work by absorbing or reflecting ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun, thereby preventing it from penetrating the skin and causing DNA damage. UV radiation is a well-established cause of skin cancer, and preventing this exposure is key to reducing cancer risk.” Angelo Landriscina, MD, FAAD, and board-certified dermatologist, also agrees. “There has never been any data linking currently commercially available sunscreens to increased risk of skin cancer. Full stop! In addition, we know that UV radiation from the sun is the primary modifiable risk factor when it comes to skin cancer, including deadlier types like melanoma.”

Another survey found that about a third of adults are unaware that tanning causes skin cancer. This is concerning, as scientific studies have proven that tanning, either from sunlight or artificial sources, is directly linked to skin cancer. Dr. Turegano emphasizes that tanning induces changes in our skin on a molecular level. “When UV rays penetrate the skin, they cause direct damage to the DNA within skin cells. This damage can manifest as mutations in the DNA, and when DNA repair mechanisms fail, the risk for skin cancer increases.” It’s also important to know that repeated tanning adds up over time. “The damage from UV radiation is cumulative. Each exposure contributes to the total amount of DNA damage, increasing the risk of developing skin cancer over time,” Dr. Turegano says. 

Another common theme gaining traction is the notion that wearing sunscreen could lead to vitamin D deficiency. On a scientific level, our skin cells produce vitamin D when they are exposed to UV rays. However, we can also get vitamin D through our diet, through foods like salmon, tuna, fortified milks, and cereals. Even with daily sunscreen use, most people don’t apply enough sunscreen to fully block UV rays, so our skin will still produce the vitamin D it needs. 

The concept of DIY sunscreen is also gaining influence. Creator Nara Smith, known for making DIY recipes from scratch, recently shared a video crafting homemade sunscreen. In this video, watched over 19 million times, her husband is seen mixing together shea butter, coconut oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, beeswax, and zinc oxide, to create sunscreen. The popularity of this type of content may mislead viewers into thinking it’s safe and effective to make sunscreen at home. However, “DIY sunscreen has several significant limitations, primarily related to efficacy, lack of testing, and regulation. Unlike commercially available sunscreens, DIY formulations are not subject to rigorous testing for their ability to protect against UV radiation” explains Dr. Garshick. Elyse Love, MD, FAAD, and board-certified dermatologist, agrees, pointing out that “DIY sunscreens unfortunately do not provide consistent sun protection within the same formula and across formulas. This can lead to patchy sunburns if some areas are protected more than others.” 

The instant gratification of a tan now could lead to serious implications down the line. A shocking statistic I want readers to internalize is that using a tanning bed before the age of 20 can increase the chance of developing melanoma, a potentially deadly form of skin cancer, by 47%. Dr. Love explains, “Unfortunately, the effects of UV exposure are delayed on the skin, so it’s easy for young people to doubt its efficacy. As a dermatologist, we see firsthand every day the effects of decades of tanning and repeated sunburns versus those who have enjoyed outdoor activities in a less damaging way.” 

The good news is, we still have time to get the SPF conversation back on track. Compared to previous generations, younger generations are more likely to be introduced to sunscreen at an earlier age. Dr. Love states, “From my clinical perspective, Gen Z and millennials are on track to have significantly lower rates of skin cancer than their parents because they are the first generations to use sunscreen routinely during childhood and [because] sunburns during childhood are a major risk factor for skin cancer formation in adulthood. I really hope this trend is a short-lived fad and doesn’t undo this advantage.” 

So how do we get the conversation back on track? One of the first steps is to make sure to vet sources of information carefully. Dr. Landriscina emphasizes the importance of this. “Dermatologists are the true experts on skin health, and some of our colleagues even misspeak sometimes. I think the best content comes from those with relevant experience who can cite their sources and interpret the data.”

So here’s what you need to know about sunscreen, straight from the source: Wear sunscreen every single day, regardless of your skin tone. Look for a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a rating of SPF of 30 or higher, and reapply every two hours. By wearing sunscreen as directed and consistently, you can reduce your risk of developing melanoma by 50%. Using SPF also protects against photoaging: (a.k.a. fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and dark spots caused by UV exposure). Wearing sunscreen will not lead to vitamin D deficiency, as most people don’t apply enough sunscreen to block the natural production of vitamin D in our skin. And finally, making your own sunscreen at home is not a good idea, as you won’t know how much sun protection, if any, it provides.