Amika’s Dr. Cicely Shillingford on Her Cosmetic Chemistry Career

Almost 10 years ago, Cicely Shillingford skipped her morning lab to attend a local trade show, and her life changed forever. As a Ph.D. candidate in Chemistry at New York University, she had been contemplating her future and considering cosmetic chemistry when a colleague invited her to the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists Ingredient Trade Show. For the first time, Shillingford felt out of her depth, immersed in the nuances of the beauty supply chain—knowledge she couldn’t gain from her Ph.D. program. Rather than retreating, she embraced this newfound curiosity, igniting her passion for the complex world of beauty. “I had no idea how even to ask the right questions or start the conversation, but I just dove in,” she recalled. “That was a turning point for me.”

Today, Shillingford is the director of product development at the award-winning haircare brand Amika, where she leads the creation of formulations that keep pace with consumer trends while ensuring quality, safety, and efficacy. Beyond her work at Amika, she has dedicated herself to mentoring students and young professionals from underrepresented backgrounds, especially women of color.

Keep reading to discover how Shillingford navigates the intersection of science and creativity in product development, supports the emerging trend of “skinification” in haircare, and advocates for inclusivity and mentorship in the beauty industry.

You’ve had an impressive journey from structural biochemistry to product development and beauty. How did attending the trade show spark your interest in cosmetic chemistry?

“That day was momentous for me. As an academic, I’d been so focused on deep dives into specific subjects that I often forgot how the rest of the world works. At the trade show, I found myself asking naive questions to ingredient suppliers about being in beauty and how to get started. After that, I continued my self-education alongside my Ph.D. research. Academic research is one thing, but understanding the beauty supply chain and applying your knowledge isn’t something you learn in a Ph.D. program. That experience was a turning point for me. My life has been a series of opportunities given to me by mentors and advice I’ve taken. So that was one of those moments. I wish I’d known earlier that I could get paid to make lipstick.”

In your role at Amika, you create products that impact people’s everyday beauty routines. What does beauty mean to you, both personally and professionally?

“I was quite a tomboy growing up. As a child, I’d put on makeup for dance and then go play soccer on the weekends. A moment that made me think critically about beauty was at a cheerleading camp in South Texas. It was the hottest weekend ever, and one of my teammates was doing a full face of makeup before the final day of performances. I asked, ‘Why bother?’ She said, ‘When I look good, I feel good, and when I feel good, I perform better.’ That stuck with me. When you look good, you feel good; when you feel good, you do good. As a cheerleader, putting on makeup helped me step into a persona and perform better. I never felt like the traditional, beautiful kid, but as I grew older and learned more about beauty, it helped me re-establish my sense of self, confidence, and purpose. That’s when it clicked that beauty, confidence, and sense of self are interconnected.” 

The intersection of science and beauty is a fascinating space. How do you balance the technical aspects of product development with the beauty industry’s creative and consumer-driven needs?

“At Amika, we work closely with our product marketing team to build concepts that fill portfolio gaps, align with trends, and meet various criteria. The product team’s job—marketing and development—is to co-create the claims and benefits and define the consumer needs. When it comes to cosmetic products, changing the look and feel of skin or hair addresses an underlying physiological goal tied to a consumer pain point.”

“As a scientist, I consider what technologies, ingredients, or molecules support that goal. For example, if the issue is flat hair and the consumer wants volume, I first consider the physiological cause—is it thinning, aging, stress, genetics, or excess oil at the scalp? Once I understand the cause, I look for solutions through chemistry, whether it’s molecules that create texture or static at the root to make the hair strands repel each other and create volume.”

“Formulation is like baking a cake. It’s not just mixing ingredients but transforming them into something new, where science, consumer needs, and beauty blend together. Because of that, there’s a lot of art and creativity in chemistry.”

What are some emerging trends in haircare that you’re excited about?

“I’m sure some cosmetic chemists will roll their eyes when I say this, but I’m genuinely excited about the ‘skinification’ of hair. Hair has many interesting properties, and there are various goals to achieve. The diversity is immense, especially for Black and Indigenous women of color, where the styles are endless. Watching skinification move into styling is exciting, focusing not just on self-expression but also on hair health and aging. We’ve accepted preventative skincare to avoid wrinkles, but consumers haven’t connected that aging also happens on the scalp and in the hair. This shift in mindset could open a significant market for well-aging hair products.”

“There are also exciting developments in sustainability. Specifically, at Amika, we have an exciting partnership with a regenerative agriculture company called Forested, based in Ethiopia. Driven by Jamie Richards, our director of ESG (Environment Social Governance), this partnership aims to integrate their ingredients into our supply chain, primarily shea butter for now. By being regenerative, they ensure the land remains healthy for future crop development and workers in those communities are properly compensated. It’s rare for businesses of our size to have such investment, and I’m proud to be part of this initiative.”

Amika’s brand is all about inclusivity and community. How do these values align with your personal and professional mission in product development?

“I love that Amika means friend [in the Esperanto language]. A big part of Amika’s success, especially being number one at Sephora for almost a year now, is the ‘All Here’ campaign. Amika has always lived those values of being a friend to all, and that message of inclusivity and community is embedded in our entire culture. We have 11 or 12 collections now for every hair type and goal. It’s critical that when we say a product is for a specific hair type, we validate that in a clinical setting. We test products thoroughly to ensure our marketing aligns with our testing so that we serve our customers effectively. I recently started a Curly Coily committee at Amika, leading a roundtable of women with type 3A to 4C hair, predominantly type 4. We discuss product development, test products, and integrate insights throughout our product development life cycle and go-to-market campaigns to ensure inclusivity in every part of our new development. I’m excited to see how this group evolves and how we can bring all voices to the table intentionally.”

During your time at NYU, you played a pivotal role in increasing the representation of Black Ph.D. scholars in chemistry. How have mentorship and advocacy shaped your career, and how do you see this influence playing out in the beauty industry?

“Advocating for Black women in STEM has always been a significant part of my academic life. When I started grad school and realized I was the only Black person in the chemistry department—and would be until I graduated—I knew that wasn’t okay. I worked hard to recruit four new Black students into the program, which involved traveling, mentoring students one-on-one, reviewing applications, and helping with scholarship applications. I drafted petitions in June 2020 to eliminate the GRE, which we successfully did. It’s a test that historically shows underrepresented minorities do worse on it. Inclusivity is something I’ve always felt called to advocate for. I see myself as a product of serendipitous opportunity, luck, great mentorship, supportive parents, and a passion for science.”

“I’m fortunate to continue this work at Amika, where we have an active DEI committee. This year, I’ve been lucky to sit on the donations committee to help the brand donate 1% of our revenue to various organizations during key cultural moments. Some organizations we’ve supported include Black Women for Wellness, which advocates for health equity for Black women, and Styles for Kids, which helps trans adoptive parents learn how to care for the hair of Black and brown children. Additionally, our ‘Rooted in Growth’ mentorship program provides scholarships predominantly to Black female founders of hair companies to improve equity in the hair industry.”

What advice would you give to young women, especially women of color, who are interested in pursuing a career in STEM within the beauty industry?

“If you’re interested in beauty and academia, a Ph.D. is a great path. There are programs for cosmetic science in the United States and globally, with more popping up. The best-known ones are at the University of Toledo and the University of Cincinnati. Many don’t realize that you can get paid to pursue a Ph.D. in the U.S. with a stipend, making it more accessible for first-generation or immigrant students for whom higher education opportunities might not be as accessible.”

“Something influential for me in grad school was joining the Chemist Club, a 160-year-old organization in New York that connects students with chemical industry careers. While it’s less beauty-focused, I learned how to connect with professionals and be a good leader. I even launched a conference series through that organization and packed a room with 200 professionals three years in a row, including the CEO of Dow Chemical and senior talent people from L’Oréal. There are many programs and events for exposure, too. There are many programs on Eventbrite—you just have to be resourceful enough to find them. The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists and the National Society for Cosmetic Chemists are organizations every student interested in cosmetic chemistry should join. You’ll make great connections, and they have great conferences with student discounts.”

“Be gritty and reach out to people willing to talk. I get many LinkedIn messages and try to respond to those that resonate with me. I’m always happy for people to contact me for guidance because transitioning into this industry as a scientist can be tough. Be curious, ask questions, and learn as much as you can. Don’t hesitate to reach out—you never know whose door might open if you knock.”